Cross country in Japan

Finally I could take a long break and travel across Japan: Tohoku, Hokkaido, Chugoku, and Kyushu districts.
Earlier I'd been around Kanto, so gave that a skip, along with neighboring district of Kinki (yes! there is a district by that name, and a University! 'think would be fun to say "'am a kinki graduate")


Japan is a splendidly beautiful country, be it cities or countryside. Of the most safest, and convenient, places for backpacking.



Day 1
Started from Tokyo, took a train to Akita (there are multiple options, fastest of which is Shinkansen -- bullet train, which is most expensive as well). There are also night trains, with budget sleeper compartments (goron to shito) and carpet-compartments (Nobinobi). Akebono runs from Ueno to Aomori (stops at Akita), Moonlight echigo runs from Shinjuku to Niigata.

I was armed with a Hokkaido & Higashinihon pass, which allowed use of all rapid and regular trains all the way to Hokkaido and then within Hokkaido too. It is a steal at $100, but the downside is that many super-fasts and bullet-trains don't allow a ride with a top-up on this pass (i.e. you have to get a complete-fare ticket)

Aoike (blue pond) is close to Akita, in the mountains of Shirakami-sanchi -- a world heritage area. The surreal blue and clear water looked beautiful with sun streaming in through the forest around.

Day 2

Very memorable was the leg between Akita and Aomori on Gono-sen. This train line runs adjacent to the sea of Japan most of the time. If you are riding Gono-line in late afternoon time, take the Shirakami resort train. Its plush seats, extra-large windows and in-house live local music is the most romantic setup for watching the sun go down into the ocean! Even the day time ride that I took on this was totally worth the extra fare!

This European castle style building is a restaurant near one of the stations on gono-line -- Wespa Tsubakiyama. Furofushi hot-spring is ~2kms from here. Great place to take a dip in mud-water while watching the sun set into sea of Japan.

Day 3

After resting in Moya Hills (excellent night view of Aomori city), took a train from Aomori to Shimokita and then a bus from Shimokita to Mt. Osore-zan.

Osore-zan, it is believed by locals, is the place where souls of dead gather. Very picturesque place with mountains all around and a huge pond in the center, with a clean stretch of white-sand beach!

There are small suphuric ponds (known as "hells") around due to which smell of sulphur is pervasive. 

Shimokita-hanto peninsula is close to this place, and is the northernmost tip of Honshu. Mountains around looked ideal for a hike, but I was eager to get to Hokkaido and pressed on!

If you are in Aomori during first week of August, enjoy the local flavors in Nebuta festival parade. 

Day 4

Hamanasu express is a night train between Aomori and Sapporo (Hokkaido). The Hokkaido pass is accepted in this train, with a small charge for reserving the seat. Hokkaido is big! Specially so if you are taking the regular trains from one place to another.

Asamushi onsen is close to Aomori (~30mins by train). There are many hot-springs here with a good ocean view. This small hill/island in near Asamushi onsen station.

Day 5

Went on to south-east Hokkaido, to Abashiri. Abashiri is the largest town on Okhotsk coast. Proximity to Russia (and early Russian influence) is evident in all the town signboards, which is written in Japanese and Russian. Abashiri prison is out of use now (except for tourism). A beautiful backdrop of mountains and looks more of a vacation place that a place to be sentenced at!

 

A small station on the way from Abashiri to Kushiro.

Day 6

Kushiro wetlands -- miles and miles of greenery, with only the Kushiro river cutting through. Sitting at this viewpoint for few moments takes away all the fatigue of hike!

Crabs in Kushiro market. Near to Kushiro station, in this supermarket you can make your own sashimi-donburi (fresh fish with rice-bowl). Hokkaido dairy, fish and other foods too is delicious!

Day 7

Nemuro, on the east coast of Hokkaido. Earliest sunrise in Japan is said to be here! I couldn't go, but heard that cape Nosappu has got a splendid view. Also has Japan's oldest lighthouse. 

Public conveyance is sparse as you go towards the interiors in Hokkaido. Having your car (or rental) is helpful.

Before dawn, a lighthouse in Nemuro.

Day 8

Flower farms in Biei. Biei and Furano are in central Hokkaido. Farms here are maintained so primly that you would think that farmers are spending more time on decoration than on produce.. guided tours from Biei station are recommended than venturing out on your own, unless you are driving

Day 9

Otaru. On western coast of Hokkaido. Kamome birds following the launch which I took from Otaru to Otamoi coast. They were a delight to watch, specially when catching food mid-air (thrown by kids in the boat).

 

Otamoi coast has got beautiful rock formations on sea. The area around is nice for hiking and camping.

Otaru Canal

Day 10

Sapporo. This is the garden of Hokkaido University. Japanese landscaping at its best!

Day 11

A visit there isn't complete without going to the Sapporo beer factory.

Did you know that Sapporo, Yebisu and Asahi beers were being brewed by the same company? Got split into separate companies due to antitrust laws after WW II.

Return from Sapporo to Tokyo was by air. Check out AirDo and Skymark airways in that sector for budget fares. 


Day 12
Boarded the Nishitetsu night bus from Tokyo to Hakata. They said that 14hrs journey is the longest bus-route ride in Japan!



Day 13
Fukuoka, Kyushu in southern Japan.
Try the yummy yatais (open food-stalls which are in business as the sun sets), local ramen and gyoza.

Indian Gods' sculptures close to Fukuoka tower. Beach is right behind the tower. If you can drive farther, there are many other less crowded and pristine beaches near this city.






Day 15
Stayed back in Fukuoka.
You can spend a few days here trying various local foods and partying in tenjin district, even just walking around in the town is good fun here! When tired, there is a beach to chill at, all within 30mins radius.
Had planned a itinerary of Hakata -> Kumamoto -> Aso -> Yufuin -> Beppu -> Hiroshima. But the buses/trains aren't so frequent in that sector and couldn't stick to this plan!

Remains of Fukuoka castle

Day 16

Kumamoto. The castle here is ranked amongst the topmost in Japan.

Day 17

From Kumamoto to Beppu, again a bus journey. The fares are quite steep here, and unless you have a seishin juhachi kippu, it is worth getting the SunQ pass offer by Kyushu local bus company.

Beppu is THE onsen place in Japan. In almost every street you'll find a sauna/hot-spring. What more, all are from natural volcanic hot water with medicinal value. I really felt the difference in skin texture after trying some of the mud baths. Quite a few good mountains to hike around this town, good for secret onsen hunters too!

Nabeyama-no-yu. An open onsen up in the mountains. Get a map from the local tourist office (or your hotel clerk). You can drive up much of the way or hike for ~30mins to reach here. Total bliss to take a dip here in natural surroundings!

Day 18

Yufuin. Just a brief stop here on the way to Aso, to see the lake kinrinko. This town is also known for onsens.

Lake kinrinko

Day 19

While I traversed the north mostly by train, south was mainly in buses.

Aso was one of the main places I'd set out for. But then stopping at the other places and then pressing on to Nagasaki, and further to Hiroshima was totally worth it.

Mt. Aso and the peaks around are simply phenomenal. One of the largest calderas in the world, the active volcano there is mesmerizing too!

Carry a picnic basket and enjoy the grasslands of kusasenri on the foothills of Mt. Aso.

Day 21

Back to Kumamoto. Hakata and kumamoto are hubs Kyushu. There is a direct bus service from Beppu to Hiroshima, but that ran only once a day if I remember right. Didn't find any direct conveyance from Aso to Hiroshima.

Once I reached Kumamoto and had a chat with the tourist office there, decided instead to first go see Nagasaki, head back to Hakata and then head to Hiroshima.

Kumamoto city at dawn

Day 22

Nagasaki. From Kumamoto port, took a ferry to Shimabara and then a bus to the city. This latter bus ride took way too long! Nagasaki is surrounded by mountains on three side and due to its vicinity to the ocean, flourished as a trading post in earlier times. The city has rebuilt itself very beautifully, but it still is sad to witness the dark side of human nature at the atomic bomb sites and museums.

Heiwa (peace) status. The right hand points to the atomic bomb, left hand to peace, face prays deeply for victims of war, folded leg symbolizes meditation and the left leg is poised for action in assisting humanity!

Exquisitely designed prayer and memorial hall in Nagasaki

Day 22

Back to Hakata and further on to Hiroshima in a night bus. Reached Hiroshima a day before the anniversary and the town was immersed in prayers and memories of the ones lost in bombing.

Hiroshima castle

A display in the museum, heart-wrenching account of a survivor:

--Michiko Ogino (10yrs old at that time)--

My two year old sister was crying hysterically,
trapped under the fallen house.

The beam was so heavy.
The sailors tried to lift it but went away
saying "it's no use."

Suddenly I saw someone running towards us.
It was a woman.
She was naked and her body was purple. "Mother!"

Now we thought everything would be alright. 

Our neighbor tried to lift the beam but it did not budge.
"It's impossible," he said. "There's just no helping it."
He bowed deeply in apology and went away.
The fires were approaching quickly. Mother's face went pale.

She looked down and my sister peered up
with fear-stricken eyes.

Mother scanned the beam again,
then slid her shoulder under it
and heaved upward with all the strength in her body.
The beam rose with a crack and my sister's leg came free.

But mother sank exhausted to the ground. 

She had been out in the field picking eggplants for lunch
when the bomb exploded. Her hair was red and frizzled.
Her skin was burnt and festering all over her body.
The skin had ripped right off the shoulder
she had applied to the beam.
The muscle was visible and blood was streaming out.
She soon began to writhe in agony,
and she died that night.

  

 Hiroshima dome -- world heritage site

O-tori, big gate, in Miyajima island near Hiroshima. The gates are usually built outside shrines, but as this whole island is considered sacred, the gate is built in ocean! One of the most scenic places in Japan.

And back to Tokyo (in a Willer-travels bus,
direct Hiroshima-Tokyo)

"We shall not cease from exploration

And at the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And to know the place for the first time." T.S.Eliot

Wakkanai in northern tip of Hokkaido, and Kagoshima islands down south (and Okinawa of course) is next ...

Thank you Japan!